Roast Chicken with Rosemary-Garlic Paste

I'm a huge sucker for whole chicken. It seems to always be juicier, and butterflying it is easy once you get the hang of it. Yet another winner from Bon Appetit, this recipe makes good use of the rosemary we have growing in our front yard. Grind the paste, spread it under the skin, and bake.

We found juniper berries at Surfas, a gourmet food store. They weren't quite so easy to find at the local supermarket. The big bag should last us a whole lifetime, as even this recipe only takes 5 small juniper berries.

1/4 cup (loosely packed) fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped, plus 3 whole fresh rosemary sprigs
5 juniper berries*
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt or coarse kosher salt
4 teaspoons olive oil
1 5- to 6-pound whole chicken (preferably organic), backbone and neck removed

Combine chopped rosemary and next 4 ingredients in mortar and crush with pestle or blend in mini processor until coarse paste forms. Mix in oil. Rinse chicken; pat dry. Rub 1 teaspoon herb mixture over bone side of chicken. Turn chicken over and open like book; place chicken, skin side up, on work surface. Loosen skin from breast and thigh meat; rub remaining herb mixture over meat under skin. Rub any remaining herb mixture on outside of chicken.

Place rosemary sprigs in 13x9x2-inch ceramic or glass baking dish. Place chicken, skin side up, atop rosemary sprigs in dish. DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and chill. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before roasting.

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400°F. Roast chicken uncovered until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 170°F, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer chicken to platter and serve.

*Available in the spice section of most supermarkets.

WHAT TO DRINK: Chardonnay is a good match for this menu. In keeping with the spirit of this earth-friendly dinner, go with a domestic bottle. We like the 2006 Frog's Leap Chardonnay ($24) from Napa, which has bright citrus and stone fruit flavors.